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Kawaii, but make it subversive: Japan’s latest fashion is more than its frills

All-conquering cute

It is hard to believe that we are approaching a decade since Kyary Pamyu Pamyu reignited international interest in Japanese kawaii with her 2011 hit song “Ponponpon.” Perhaps “reignited” is an inappropriate word for something that has never stopped smoldering, but it is hard to deny that the song, or more accurately the arresting video by art director Sebastian Masuda, kicked up some sparks.

Since then, kawaii street culture in Japan may have become a little less flamboyant, much to the disappointment of pre-COVID-19 tourists out on safari in Harajuku, but no less culturally relevant. Present-day youth fashion for both men and women remains decidedly on the boyish and girlish end of the spectrum, pushing back everyone’s graduation into “grown-up” fashion.

Enter Peche, the adult-orientated version of teen girls fashion magazine Larme, whose second issue went on sale in print and via download on April 21. From the visuals, it might be hard to guess that the readership is assumed to be over 25, but the self-proclaimed mission statement is clear — this is for adults who want to choose youthful kawaii over kirei (“pretty,” but the nuance suggests adult beauty).

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